Utah Biodiesel Supply


Items Required:
(1) Roll Yellow PTFE Tape
(1) Dry Pro Nozzle
(1) 1200 Watt Heavy Duty Band Heater
(1) 1" Heavy Duty Transfer Pump
(1) 3/4" Ball Valve
(1) 5 Feet 3/4" Clear Tubing
(2) 1" x 12" Long Black Steel Pipes
(1) 1" Black Steel Union
(1) 1" 90° Black Steel Elbow
(2) 1/2" to 1 1/4" Hose Clamps
(1) 3/4" 90° Black Steel Street Elbow
(1) 1" x 3/4" x 3/4" Black Steel Tee
(1) 3/4" Black Steel Close Connector
(2) 1" Black Steel Close Connectors
(1) 3/4" Quick Connect Female Coupler (Part B)
(2) 3/4" Quick Connect Hose Barbs (Part E)
(2) 3/4" Quick Connect Dust Caps (Part DC)

Step 1:
Mark a hole as close to the bottom of your drum as you can.
Then, using a metal hole drill bit, cut a hole in the drum.

Step 2:
Sand off the paint around the hole and weld one of the 1" Close Connectors onto the hole

HELPFUL TIP:
Read through the plumbing assembly steps all the way before assembling your drying tank. Then, "dry-fit" all of your plumbing first before tightening everything down. This will make it easier to ensure everything lines up.

Step 3:
Unpack the 1" Transfer Pump and prepare to mount it to the 1" Close Connector that is welded to the drum. Lightly screw it on to make sure it threads properly. Don't tighten it yet.

Step 4:
Attach the two 1" x 12" Pipes, the 1" Union, the 1" Elbow, and the remaining 1" Close Connector.

Step 5:
At this point, disconnect all the plumbing including the pump, wrap teflon tape around all of the threads and tighten all the pipes together. It's important to do this before marking the upper hole because if the pipes haven't been tightened the hole you cut will be too high and the plumbing won't fit into the hole.

Step 6:
Stand the barrel up and align the plumbing so that it's level. Using a permanent marker, mark a hole around the 1" Close Connector. Push the plumbing out of the way and then using the metal hole drill bit, drill the hole. Check that the fitting fits properly into the hole and make any necessary adjustments on the hole. A hand-held file works great to make small adjustments to the hole to ensure a good fit.

Step 7:
Push the plumbing through the hole and using the diagram above, assembly the in-tank fittings. This includes the 1"x3/4"x3/4" Tee, the Dry Pro nozzle, the 3/4" Close Connector, the 3/4" Ball Valve, the 3/4" 90° Street Elbow, and the 3/4" Female Quick Connect Fitting.
TIP: Don't tighten the 90&Deg; Elbow fitting. Leave it somewhat loose so that you can rotate it. This will allow connecting the tubing to it easier as well as allowing you to direct the overflow. Also, don't put teflon tape on the quick connect fitting. The plastic threads will self-seal to the metal threads as they're screwed in.

Step 8:
Attach the fittings to the tubing and clamp the barbs down. Make sure everything fits tightly.

Step 9:
Depending on how low you welded the 1" fitting to the bottom of the drum, you may need to build a stand for the drum to sit on so that the drum and the pump sit level with each other. Using a 2x4, you can easily build a stand that will sit right under the drum and will raise the drum up enough to align with the pump.

Step 10:
Once everything is assembled, it's time to do a leak test. I like to use water because it's a lot less messy than oil and is easier to clean up if there is a leak. Add about 5 gallons to the drum and turn on the pump and make sure all the fittings don't leak. Fix any leaks and drain out the water.

Step 11:
Attach the band heater to the drum and you're all set! Load it with oil or Biodiesel,
turn the heat and the pump on and let the dewatering begin!


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